|Note the color difference.|
The small pieces are plain bookboard.
The larger has a white cardstock underlayer.
- Put some kind of white backing on the cover paper.
- Cover the bookboard with something white.
- White Paper
|One of my bookbinding colleagues|
suggested using a foam brush to
evenly brush on thin coats.
Likewise, I had two concerns about covering the bookboard with plain white paper. What kind of paper wouldn't compromise the archival status of the book? And how would the additional layer of paper impact the adhesiveness? I don't want my cover papers bubbling or falling apart 6 months of even 6 years down the road.
|Left: White paper, cream paper,|
and bare board.
Right: two coats of gesso.
After one coat on the first side, I used a hairdryer on medium heat and low air settings to speed up the drying process, and within twenty seconds the first coat was dry. I put the first coat on the opposite side and dried with the hairdryer. Repeating this process until I had four coats. (Two coats would probably have been sufficient.)
Once each board was coated four times on each side, and dry to the touch, I layered them in wax paper and pressed them overnight to prevent warping.
|The completed book.|
Things to watch out for when using gesso on bookboard:
- The adhesive will bind with the toothy gesso, and if you need to remove your paper, your gesso'd layer will peel off with the paper, leaving a visible spot of brown bookboard. If this happens, you can just dip your sponge brush in the gesso, cover the spot, dry with the hairdryer and you should be okay.
- The thin coats of gesso will never fully cover the board. There will be lighter and darker variations. I was worried these variations would show through with my semi-transparent handmade paper, but they didn't.